Facts about wool

A wide range of natural fibres are used in felting, but the most commonly used material is sheep's wool. The structure of wool fibre makes it a unique material for felting. Wool fibre has small scales on its surface that stick together when exposed to moisture, heat and movement. This allows the wool to felt and form a dense and durable structure.

The properties of different fibres - such as softness, curl, fibre length and porosity - have a significant impact on the final result. Therefore, the choice of material plays an important role in felting. There is a wide range of wool from different sheep breeds on the market, and the wool properties depend primarily on the breed of sheep and the structure of the fibre.

Sheep's wool is one of the oldest textile fibres known to mankind. It has been used in clothing and textiles for thousands of years. Wool is an excellent heat-retainer, can absorb moisture without feeling wet and is also naturally fire-resistant.

Interesting facts about wool:

• Natural wool is one of the most popular textile materials, as it retains heat excellently.
• Wool has been used by mankind for thousands of years and, in the age of synthetic materials, it is still a very valuable and viable alternative.
• Merino wool is one of the few natural materials that scientists have not been able to fully imitate by synthetic means.
• The sheep are sheared twice a year and, depending on the breed, between 5 and 18 kg of wool is produced from one sheep each year.
• 10 kilos of sheep's wool produces around 6000 kilometres of yarn.
• Sheep hair thickness varies 14-31 microns between, while the thickness of human hair is 80-120 microns.
• Sheep's wool is fire-resistant, which makes merino wool an excellent material for fire-resistant clothing.
• Blanket is one of the oldest wool products, and it is believed that Stone Age people learned to make it around 8,000 years ago.
• The warmest socks are woollies!

Villa in felting

🎥 Video player user manual:
At the bottom right, you'll find a button to expand the video to full screen. There you will also find a button to adjust the video playback speed.

In felting, the choice of material has a big impact on the final result. The properties of wool are influenced in particular by the thickness, length, curl, sheen and texture of the fibre.

In Finland, the most important indigenous breeds of sheep are:

• Finnish llama
• kainuunharmas
• Åland lamb

These breeds often have both soft undercoats and longer topcoats. This structure makes wool a versatile material for a variety of textile works. The wool of the Finnish sheep is often classified as a ground wool type. The dense underwool provides good thermal insulation and moisture protection. The longer and coarser cover hairs protect the undercoat from wetting and wear. The characteristics of Kainuunharmaan wool are very similar to those of Suomenlampa wool. In Åland wool, on the other hand, the soft undercoat and the longer hairs are often clearly distinguishable.

The most commonly used wool in the international supply of felting materials is Australian merino wool. It is produced in very large quantities worldwide and is therefore readily available in many craft and textile shops. Merino wool fibre is often very fine, soft and uniform in quality, making it a pleasant to handle and predictable material, especially for beginners. In addition, merino wool is available in a wide range of finenesses - from very thin fibres to slightly thicker options - so it can be used for a wide variety of textile works. It is precisely because of this good availability, uniformity and manageability that merino wool has become one of the most widely used wool materials in the world for handicrafts.

The finesse of the villa

Wool fineness refers to the size of the diameter of the wool fibre. The smaller the fibre, the finer the wool. In general, fine wool is also curly, while coarser fibres are straighter. The fineness of the wool is also influenced by the texture of the sheep's skin. The hair follicles may be located at different depths in the skin, which affects the thickness and length of the fibres.

Wool fibre thickness is measured in microns (µm). The lower the micron number, the finer and usually softer the wool.
The thickness of sheep's wool fibres generally varies between about 14 and 40 microns. In comparison, the thickness of human hair is generally around 80-120 microns.
Roughly, wool can be described according to the following thickness ranges:
14-18 µm - very fine wool
18-21 µm - fine wool
21-28 µm - medium fine wool
28-32 µm and more - coarser wool
The thickness of the fibre affects how the wool feels on the skin and what kind of use it is suitable for. A finer fibre feels softer and is often suitable for lighter textiles, while a coarser fibre gives the structure more rigidity and durability.

The wool fibre fineness of Finnish sheep breeds usually varies as follows:

• Finnish lamb: about 23-36 µm
• the third: about 25-33 µm
• Åland lamb: about 24-31 µm

The finer fibres tend to feel softer and are suitable for lightweight and down-going textiles. Coarser fibres, on the other hand, give the structure more rigidity and durability. In felting, both fine and coarser wool can work well, but they give a slightly different texture to the work. The finer fibre allows for a thinner and softer surface, while the coarser fibre makes the structure stronger and sturdier.

However, wool characteristics can vary from individual to individual and according to the age, diet and growing conditions of the sheep.

Wool quality at different ages and in different seasons

If you buy wool directly from a sheep farmer or use wool from your own farm, it's good to know that the properties of wool can vary a lot. according to the age of the sheep and the time of collection. These differences affect both the structure of the fibre and how the wool behaves in felting.

Lamb's villa is usually finer and softer than adult sheep's wool. The fibres are often thinner and more flexible, which makes the wool feel very soft in the hand. Lamb's wool is particularly suitable for work where a soft and delicate surface is desired. At the same time, however, it is worth bearing in mind that the fibre may also be slightly shorter, which may affect the behaviour of the wool when working.

Adult sheep wool is usually stronger and the fibre is slightly thicker. The fibres are often longer and more durable, making wool a versatile material for a variety of felt constructions. This type of wool also often gives the fabric more structure and durability.

Also season affect the properties of wool.

Spring sheared wool often contains more fat, dirt and plant residues because the sheep have been indoors or in dry conditions during the winter. However, spring wool can be very strong and long because the fibre has grown throughout the winter.

Autumn wool sheared is often cleaner because the sheep have grazed outside during the summer and the wool has had less time to grow. Autumn wool can be slightly shorter, but is often also of a very uniform quality and pleasant to handle.

It is also good to know that the sun can affect the colour of wool. For example, the wool of a brown sheep may lighten or become warmer in colour during the summer as a result of the sun. Such natural sun-bleached wool can be very beautiful and give a vivid and varied colour surface to handicrafts.

So when you buy wool directly from a shepherd or process your own wool, you should pay attention not only to the breed of sheep but also to the age of the sheep, the time of shearing and the conditions under which the wool is reared, as these factors have a significant influence on the properties and behaviour of the wool during working.

Wool types in different sheep breeds

Different types of wool are found in sheep breeds, which influence the properties and uses of the fibre.

Type of underpinning
In some breeds, wool consists mainly of fine undercoat wool. It is soft, curly and usually about 5-15 cm long.

Type of blanket wool
In some breeds, the wool cover consists mainly of longer hairs. Such wool can be shiny and gently curled, and the fibres can grow up to about 40 cm long.

Miscellaneous
Many breeds have both undercoat and topcoat wool. This structure is also typical of Finnish sheep breeds. The undercoat gives the wool a warmth-insulating and soft structure, while the longer topcoats protect the wool from moisture and wear.

Wool structure - pegs

Wool grows naturally tapuleina, i.e. bundles of fibres. Tapuli is a group of wool fibres growing from the same group of hair follicles. The shape of the tapul varies according to the breed. It can be, for example:

• conical and tapering at the tip
• cylindrical
• blunt

The structure and shape of tapul influences the appearance of wool, its processability and the behaviour of the fibres in different textile techniques. Tapulas can also be used as such in felting without carding - a natural bundle of fibres gives a living texture to the work and can be used, for example, to create interesting textures or to finish the edges of products.

The shine of wool

Wool sheen refers to the ability of wool fibres to reflect light. When the surface fibres are closely packed together, the wool reflects light and looks shiny. Such wool can feel smoother when handled. The gloss can also affect how easily the wool adheres to other fibres during processing.

Wool sorting by treatment

The wool used in felting can be divided into three main categories, depending on the way it is processed.

Wool pelt
The wool fibres are combed and laid in the same direction in long strips. The fibres are long and straight.

Carded wool
The wool is carded and shaped into an airy sheet. The fibres are shorter and are arranged in different directions.

Fleece or washed raw wool
The wool is carded and washed, but the fibres retain their natural curl and nap structure.

Both combed and carded wool can be used for felting. However, their behaviour is different. Carded wool is often shorter and the fibres are arranged in different directions, which means it felts quickly and forms a strong structure.

In combed wool, the fibres are long and straight. It can be used for thin and smoother surfaces, while carded wool is well suited for strong and rigid felt structures.

Can wool cause allergies? The researched answer surprises

Many people believe that wool causes allergic reactions. However, a recent study Acta Dermato-Venereologica -shows that wool is not an allergenic material for the skin. Most skin irritations are caused by mechanical abrasion, in particular irritation caused by coarse fibres (≥30-32 µm), and not by immunological reactions.

The study analysed 100 years of published research and found no evidence that wool itself is an allergen. In addition, modern wool treatment methods significantly reduce potential irritants such as lanolin, formaldehyde and chromium, making wool more skin-friendly. In particular, fine merino wool has been found to be well tolerated, even by people with atopic dermatitis.

📚 Read the full study:
Debunking the Myth of Wool Allergy: Reviewing the Evidence for Immune and Non-immune Cutaneous Reactions
Acta Dermato-Venereologica, 2017, Vol. 97, No. 8, pp. 906-915.

Choice of wool for this course

Wool can be natural or dyed. It is worth remembering that undyed wool often shrinks slightly more than dyed wool because the dyeing process changes the structure of the fibres somewhat. For this training, I recommend using long-fibre wool with a fibre length of about 6-11 cm and a fineness of about 16-22 microns. This type of wool is particularly suitable for thin felt surfaces and makes the work more manageable.

In the training videos, I mainly use a wool top, where the fibres are longitudinally in the same direction. This helps to build even layers and thin felt surfaces. However, if you have carded wool (for example, if you are working with your own sheep's wool), you can also use it in this course. In that case, it's just a good idea to take into account a few properties related to the structure of the wool. The fibres of carded wool are shorter and are arranged in different directions.

This makes it easier for the carded wool to pass through the layers, and the colours blend together more intensely than in wool tops. The fibres of carded wool are often slightly thicker, which makes the surface more visible and slightly rougher, rather than as smooth as tops.

The long and straight fibre of the wool tops allows for thin and smooth felt surfaces. The shorter, curlier fibres of carded wool make the structure more rigid and hold its shape better. This is why carded wool is often particularly well suited to applications such as bags, interior textiles and other felt products with a stronger structure.

In scarves, carded wool does not always work as well unless decorative fibres, such as viscose, are used. In this case, it is best to lay the carded wool in very thin layers and add a thin layer of decorative fibres on top to help create a lighter and more vibrant surface.

Decorative fibres

Decorative fibres are used in felting wool. The decorative fibre itself does not shrink or shrink. They are interspersed with the wool layers and, when felted, the wool fibres are mixed with the decorative fibres. In this way, the decorative fibres form a beautiful and interesting surface. The wide range of fibre options available on the market allows a wide variety of surfaces to be created. I divide fibres into long and short, soft and hard. Silk. It gives a shiny surface to the work and increases durability. Silk fibres come in different types. Personally, I usually use Mulperry silk. It is a long, soft and shiny fibre. For example, Tussah Silk is long, hard and matt. Silk is a more expensive option than viscose. Viscose (artificial silk) is an artificial fibre made from bleached sulphite cellulose. The raw material for cellulose is usually birch or spruce, but also beech, eucalyptus, reed or bamboo (wikipedia). Matt and glossy viscose are available. Glossy viscose gives a lovely glowing effect to the fabric. As a rule, viscose is used to decorate the surface of wool. Viscose is sold in tops and shams. How to put a viscose wrap into service.

Cotton. Cotton fibre is short and tough. Flax. Flax can be long or short and hard. Nettle. Nettle fibre is long and hard. Bamboo. Long and hard. Soy. Long and medium hard. Wool yarns. Yarns can also be used. Remember the looser the thread the better it will felt to the job. Man-made fibre yarns do not drape well. Mohair. Long and hard. Silk yarns. Soft and particularly light. Ornamental fabrics (used in nuno quilting) Silk chiffon. Thin and low-density. Silk cap works on the same principle as silk threads. Chiffon, linen, cotton and others. Fabrics with a thin weave will felt better. Prefelt. Factory-made and home-made. They can be felted into products or used for decoration. There is also a wool mix, which consists of wool and some other fibre. Different colours and wool and decorative fibres can be mixed in the same product. In felting, they are mixed together to form different shades . For example, there are many shades of viscose, so you can find the same shade as your wool. You can also use a contrasting colour- Tip, if you use a lighter viscose than wool , you will get a patina effect on the surface of the fabric. On the other hand, if you choose a darker viscose than wool, the products will be brighter and you will get richer shades.

How to choose and use fabric for felting?

In addition to wool, a wide range of additional materials can be used in felting, enriching the final result and offering new possibilities in terms of both structure and visual appeal. One of these important materials is fabric. In this section, we will explore how fabric can be used in felting in a versatile and creative way.

1. Why is fabric used in felting?
Fabric brings many advantages to felting work:
- Structural support: fabric can strengthen the felt surface, make it more durable or prevent excessive shrinkage.
- A lighter and thinner finish: for example, in scarves or vests, the fabric can act as a lightweight support structure, eliminating the need for a thick layer of wool.
- Decorative effect: the fabric can also be used for purely decorative purposes - either as a whole surface or as an appliqué, i.e. small cut-out shapes or patterns placed on top of the wool. This opens up a lot of creative possibilities with patterns, colours and textures.
- The fabric can also be used as a base for a patterned felting, where wool is ”painted” and the fabric creates the background texture or tone.

2. What kind of fabric is suitable for felting?
- Natural fibres are the best choice. Wool adheres well to fabrics such as silk, viscose, cotton, linen and wool.
- Synthetic fabrics (e.g. polyester) do not usually drape, as wool does not adhere well to them. They can be used as decoration, but they do not stick as well.
- The structure of the fabric must be such that the wool fibres can pass through it during felting. A fabric that is too dense will not work.
- The thinner and lighter the fabric, the easier it is for wool to stick to it. Silk (pongé), for example, is an excellent choice.

3. How does the fabric behave in felting?
- When wool becomes felted, it shrinks, pulling the fabric along with it.
- If the fabric is thick or stiff, it will not adapt to the movement of the wool, and the result can be severe wrinkling or unevenness.
- A thin fabric will felt softer and smoother, resulting in a more beautiful surface.
- The surface that results from shrinkage can also be interestingly textured - this can either be a desired effect or something that is being avoided.

4. What else is worth considering?
- Different fabrics behave differently. I recommend doing some small test work before starting a bigger job.
- You can combine different fabric types in one piece to create different effects and surfaces.
- It's also worth observing how different colours and light transmission affect the final result.

Here's just a sneak peek - hope this is useful! I'll be happy to tell you more and answer your questions during the webinar tonight. If you have your own experiences or favourite fabrics, please feel free to share them with us - we always learn from each other too.

This lesson offers just a small taste of the huge world that felting and the use of different materials can open up for you. During the course, we will delve into even more diverse techniques that will help you create even more stunning and unique works. This is not just a hobby, but a journey into the depths of creativity. Join us to explore and develop your skills, and see for yourself how many ways you can use this knowledge in your own work.